Japan is considered one of the world’s largest and most renowned whisky-producing countries, alongside Scotland, Ireland, the United States, and Canada. Japanese whisky experienced a long dark age following the collapse of the bubble economy around 1990 but regained popularity domestically with the rise of a simple cocktail called the highball — a mix of whisky and soda water. Japanese whisky rapidly gained global recognition after winning multiple international competitions.

The definition of Japanese whisky was unclear until recently, but the new standards was implemented in 2021, which left only a handful bottles to be considered “true” Japanese whisky.

In this post, let’s explore the history, characteristics, the new standard, and must-try brands of Japanese whisky.

Interestingly, “whisky” is typically used in Scotland, Canada, and Japan, while “whiskey” is more common in Ireland and the United States. Since this post focuses on Japanese whisky, I will use “whisky.”

The story of Japanese whisky dates back to the early 20th century when Shinjiro Torii, the founder of Suntory, set out to create a whisky that would appeal to the Japanese palate — less smokey, smoother, and lighter. In 1923, he established the Yamazaki Distillery, Japan’s first commercial whisky distillery in Yamazaki, Kyoto.

To ensure authenticity, Torii hired Masataka Taketsuru, often called the father of Japanese whisky, who had studied whisky production in Scotland. Taketsuru’s expertise helped shape the foundation of Japanese whisky, blending Scottish traditions with a uniquely Japanese approach. Taketsuru later founded Nikka Whisky in 1934, establishing his own distillery in Yoichi, Hokkaido.

Since then, numerous distilleries have emerged across Japan, each bringing its own interpretation of whisky, yet all adhering to the high standards set by these pioneers.

Masataka Taketsuru’s journey to becoming the father of Japanese whisky is a story of passion, perseverance, and dedication. Born in 1894 into a sake-brewing family in Hiroshima, Taketsuru developed a deep-rooted understanding of fermentation and brewing from an early age. He joined Settsu Shuzo, a company aiming to produce Japan’s first domestic whisky.

In 1918, Taketsuru was chosen to travel alone to Scotland, where he studied organic chemistry at the University of Glasgow and apprenticed at several Scottish distilleries. There, he meticulously documented traditional whisky-making techniques, from malting and mashing to fermentation and aging.

While in Scotland, he met and married Rita Cowan, a Scottish woman who supported his dream of bringing authentic whisky-making to Japan. In 1920, the couple returned to Japan, and Taketsuru rejoined Settsu Shuzo as the chief engineer. But the company was affected by the post-World War I economic downturn and abandoned its plan to produce authentic whisky. As a result, Taketsuru left Settsu Shuzo and made a living as a chemistry teacher, while his wife worked as an English teacher.

Then, in 1923, he joined Kotobukiya Co., Ltd. (now Suntory) at the newly established Yamazaki Distillery, working under Shinjiro Torii. But his vision of producing whisky with a bolder, smokier profile (just like authentic Scotch) clashed with Torii’s preference for a lighter style tailored to Japanese tastes.

When his contract expired in 1934, Taketsuru left the company and founded the Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido. He was drawn to Hokkaido’s climate which was similar to the Scottish Highlands. There, he crafted bold, peaty whiskies that carried the essence of his Scottish training. Over time, his company, Nikka Whisky, gained recognition for producing some of Japan’s finest whiskies, rivaling those of Suntory.

The diverse climates of Japan, from humid summers to cold winters, create unique aging conditions that influence the whisky’s flavor profile. Additionally, many distilleries use pure, soft water from natural springs, contributing to the whisky’s smoothness.

One of the most distinctive elements of Japanese whisky is the use of Mizunara oak barrels for aging. This rare Japanese wood imparts complex aromas of sandalwood, spice, and incense, giving the whisky a unique character.

Japanese whisky places a strong emphasis on blending, with master blenders working to create harmonious and balanced flavors. This results in whiskies that are often smooth, refined, and elegant.

For years, there was no official legal definition of Japanese whisky, which allowed some brands to label their products as “Japanese whisky” despite using imported ingredients or even being distilled outside of Japan. To protect the integrity of the industry and provide consumers with transparency, the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association introduced new labeling standards in 2021.

• Whisky labeled as “Japanese whisky” must be distilled, aged, and bottled in Japan.
• The water used in production must come from Japan.
• The whisky must be aged in wooden casks for at least three years.
• Only malted grains and other cereal grains can be used as raw materials.
• Additives other than caramel coloring are prohibited.

These regulations were put in place to ensure that consumers receive an authentic Japanese-made product, preventing misleading labeling practices that had previously been common.

Several major distilleries have confirmed that their core products comply with these new guidelines, including:

Some brands that had previously marketed themselves as Japanese whiskey no longer meet the new criteria despite their popularity, such as:

As Japanese whisky continues to rise in global popularity, demand has exceeded supply, leading to shortages and soaring prices for aged expressions. To address this, many distilleries are experimenting with innovative aging techniques and new blends. While purists may long for the days of plentiful aged whisky, these changes are opening the door for new and exciting expressions that push the boundaries of Japanese whisky-making.

For whisky enthusiasts, Japanese whisky represents a perfect balance of tradition and innovation. Whether you’re savoring a glass neat, on the rocks, or in a highball, each sip offers a glimpse into the artistry and dedication behind this extraordinary spirit.